Grade 4 vs Grade 3.5 — which should you buy?
Grade 4 is the popular baseline, but Grade 3.5 cars are cheaper and often fine. Here's how to choose without getting stuck with someone else's deferred repairs.
Side-by-side
| Grade 4 | Grade 3.5 | |
|---|---|---|
| Condition | Good used; minor cosmetic flaws | Average; noticeable wear, small repairs |
| Typical buyer | Resale, low hassle, first import | Budget / keepers who accept marks |
| Price | Higher — the market's “safe” grade | Lower — discount should be obvious |
| Watch for | Tired interior letter (C/D) | W clusters, XX panels, mileage vs year |
| Risk if you skip the map | Paying Grade 4 money for a tired cabin | Buying deferred bodywork at a fake discount |
Both grades sit above junk and below near-new. Full scale: auction grades explained. Comparing upward? See Grade 4.5 vs Grade 5.
What Grade 4 actually means
Inspectors use Grade 4 for cars that are solid daily drivers with only minor visible flaws — light scratches, small marks, normal used-car wear. It's the grade most importers quote as “clean” without being as-new. Resale buyers and cautious first-timers usually start here.
- Expect a few cosmetic marks; don't expect structural repair (that would be R/RA).
- Check the interior letter — a Grade 4 with a harsh C/D cabin can still disappoint.
- Confirm mileage fits the year; Grade 4 does not prove the odometer is honest.
What Grade 3.5 actually means
Grade 3.5 is a step down: more visible wear, possibly small panel repairs, and a price that should reflect that. It is not automatic “bad car” territory — plenty of 3.5 cars are honest high-use vehicles. The grade is a summary; the damage map is the detail.
- Look for clusters of W (repair wave) marks — one W1 is noise; a row of W2/W3 is a story.
- XX on bolt-on panels (doors, bumpers) is common; don't confuse it with an R grade.
- If the discount vs a similar Grade 4 is tiny, pay for the 4 instead.
How to decide for your situation
| Your situation | Lean toward |
|---|---|
| First Japanese import / want easy resale | Grade 4 |
| Tight budget, will keep 5+ years | Grade 3.5 if the map is clean |
| Planning bodywork / wrap / project use | Grade 3.5 can be smart |
| Dealer flipping next year | Grade 4 (or 4.5+) |
| Seller won't share a verifiable sheet | Neither — walk |
The checks that matter more than 4 vs 3.5
- Verify the original sheet by chassis number — edited grades are common.
- Read the damage map with the overall grade, not instead of it.
- Compare mileage to interior wear and year — see mileage guidance.
- Price the discount in your market — a 3.5 that costs almost Grade 4 money is a bad trade.
Check the real grade first
Verify the original auction sheet by chassis number before you choose 4 or 3.5.
Verify auction sheetFrequently asked questions
Is Grade 3.5 bad?
Is Grade 4 always worth the extra money?
Can a Grade 3.5 have accident history?
Should I buy Grade 3.5 for a family daily?
Related reading
Japanese auction grades explained
What every Japanese auction grade means — from S and 6 down to 3, plus the R and RA accident codes and the A–E interior/exterior letter grades. Know exactly what you're buying.
Read guide Guide · 8 minHow to read a Japanese auction sheet
A step-by-step guide to reading a Japanese car auction sheet: the overall grade, interior and exterior letter grades, the damage map symbols, mileage and equipment — and how to spot a faked sheet.
Read guide Blog · 5 minGrade 4.5 vs Grade 5 — is the upgrade worth it?
What separates a Japanese auction Grade 4.5 from a Grade 5, how much extra you usually pay, and when the higher grade is worth the premium.
Read article Guide · 8 minAuction sheet symbols and damage map
A complete reference to Japanese auction sheet damage-map symbols — A, U, W, E, B, S, C, X and XX — and what the 1–4 severity numbers mean.
Read guide